It’s amazing how one can settle into a routine, even under the strangest of circumstances – here we are in Antarctica and we wake, eat, dress and prepare for a zodiac landing as though we’ve done it a thousand times before.
There’s even time to enjoy the view from the back of La Terrazza:
It helps that we’re late off the ship again, though we were woken earlier than expected when Marieke announces that the area around Portal Point is socked in with ice.
There’s a sharp intake of breath as we wonder whether that will prevent us from making landfall on the Continent, but we’re relieved to hear that it simply means we will have to anchor further away from the landing zone – and that we will have less time on-site. Not the end of the world by any stretch.
On our way back from breakfast, my son reminds me to check the kayaking list and… I’m on it! Dead last but still there. There is plenty that can go wrong between now and this afternoon so I’m trying not to get my hopes up.
9:30 am arrives, and it’s time to board the zodiac. The views are stunning:
Amazingly, the crew continues to perform maintenance even while we are in Antarctica – here they are painting the exterior of the Wind!
We head to our landing zone:
We’re moving at a steady clip when the unthinkable happens –
BANG.
Our zodiac driver drops the throttle immediately, and it’s soon clear that the zodiac has been punctured:
Thankfully the raft sections are compartmentalized – and we are able to limp our way out to the landing site.
We dutifully stop to get our ‘Seventh Continent’ hero shots – as Marieke points out, even if it’s not our seventh continent we will be glad to have the photos someday.
We continue up the hill – icy, but manageable thanks to the expedition staff who are carving steps into the hillside – and reach the top, where other expedition team members are undergoing crevasse rescue training.
The views from the top are absolutely stellar.
It feels like a true moment of triumph after such a long journey.
Back down the hill, where the kids hop along the rocks beside small frozen pools.
Then off for our zodiac cruise in the brand new zodiac brought to shore by the support driver, Anatoly.
We spot an Antarctic shag feeding its fledgling:
We then head off in search of humpback whales – and we find them:
The combination of the whales and the scenery is truly special. But the whales have further surprises in store:
Then we manage our own close encounter:
These beautiful creatures are close enough to touch. One of the passengers on our zodiac – Roger – even manages to get a quick underwater video:
With that, we cast one last look over the stunning scenery and returned to the ship:
Off to trivia, where we manage to score first place once more – my son answered that a funambulist is a tightrope walker, while my daughter knew that the oldest Silversea ship is the Cloud.
Then we head to lunch:
I had the quinoa pattie for my starter:
It was good, just not what I was expecting.
My wife had the ham and lentil soup:
And for our mains we both had the salmon:
I quite liked the soggy-potato-chip style side but my wife didn’t really care for it – though we both liked the salmon and the sauce.
The Wind carried on to Wilhelmina Bay, and I was off for kayaking!
First I had to gear up:
Apart from the drysuit, wool hat and buff I was also wearing two lower layers, a wool shirt, and a wool sweatshirt beyond that. I had thin glove liners as well as other gloves to wear on the return trip.
Then we’re on our way:
It was an incredible experience – pushing the boat through the brash ice in glass-calm waters, listening to ice chunks bouncing off the hull as we hear the blow of humpback whales in the distance. (Video coming soon!)
I’ve spent a lot of time trying to think about how I’d describe what it’s like being in Antarctica, and all I’ve come up with is that it’s the closest I’ll ever get to being on another planet. Everything here is so strange and different from what I’ve experienced before. It really gets under your skin.
My wife and children, however, was having quite an adventure of their own:
This is apparently called ‘spy hopping’, though it’s unclear why scientists haven’t named it ‘ohmygoodnesswhatishappeningdidyouseethat!’
Back to the boat and off to the briefing, where we learn that a nasty weather system is on its way, so we will be skipping South Shetland and heading straight for Puerto Williams. We were always leery of taking the kids on the Drake, so we fully support this decision – plus it looks like they will arrange some sort of excursion for us back in Puerto Williams.
Off to dinner:
I had the potato fritter:
This looks terrible, but it tasted fantastic. One of the best things I’ve eaten this cruise.
My wife had the tomato soup:
And for dinner I have the tandoori murgh:
Also fantastic.
My wife and daughter both had the veal medallions:
And I finished with the hazelnut cheesecake:
And then it was most definitely time for bed.