Antarctica to Zimbabwe – Day 32 – Silver Wind, Antarctic Peninsula

Late disembarkation for our combo landing and zodiac cruise today – but we’ve been enjoying our unrushed schedule, so that means setting a 7:45 am alarm so that we can order our various fancy breakfasts and be ready to board the zodiac shortly after 9:15 am.

(The expedition team has been saying that it will be 15 minutes between zodiac groups, but instead it’s closer to 5 minutes so we try to be ready before the call comes down.)

We disembark for D’Hainut Island in Mikkelsen Harbour, and it is stunning:

The harbour was previously used by sealing and whaling vessels, but later became the site of an Argentinian refuge – a small red building on the far side of the island. It’s now the site of a large colony of gentoo penguins.

We spot a lone gentoo building a nest. Has he got his seasons mixed up? No, he’s simply practicing for next year.

Penguins – and the early mornings – are making me sleepy…

Conditions are slippery, but we manage to make it up and down the hill without incident – not the case with all passengers, some of whom find themselves covered in penguin pong. Trekking poles seem prudent for those on the fence.

The Argentinian refuge

Lots of molting here – chicks and adults alike

“Feed me!”

“Nobody’s fed me…”

The Snowy Sheathbill – uncharitably referred to as the ‘poop chicken’ by the expedition guides

Expedition guide Jess notes that the snowy sheathbill was considered by naturalists to be remarkably white and pristine-looking “considering its habits”, which has to be my new favourite backhanded compliment. I’m going to see if I can find ways to work this into everday conversation. For instance, “You look very nice today, considering your habits.”

Jess also took a beautiful family portrait of us, asking us to say whiskey instead of cheese as it draws the face into a much more natural smiling position. This is apparently advice that’s been passed along by Julie Andrews. (A quick fact check indicates that Julie Andrews actually prefers the world money but I can see why Silversea doesn’t ask us to say that as we finally land in Antarctica!)

We continue to admire the penguins and the scenery:

But it’s soon time to return to the landing site:

Still at it!

The combination landing and zodiac cruise is Silversea’s way of taking the sting out of the landing restrictions – only 100 can go ashore at once. My wife would much prefer that the ships capacity be limited to 200 instead, so that we could get in an extra landing. I’m still considering whether another landing would be practical, or if the current pace and scope are adequate.

Speaking of which, however, it is now time for our zodiac cruise:

Here we encounter chinstrap penguins for the first time. They are known as the most cautious of the penguin species…

Because they always have their helmets on!

We then spot some beautiful ice formations:

Plus my personal favourite, falling penguins:

Back to the ship, and off for lunch:

I start with the ham and cheese croquette:

My wife has the leek and mushroom turnover:

And I finally order a chicken burger, which I’ve wanted to do for several days now:

The kids then head off for a swim, which proves to be cool though comfortable. They keep the water at around 30 Celsius (mid 80s Farenheit) but it still feels cool next to that Antarctic wind. The hot tub helps.

Then off to Cierva Cove – the weather is initially quite foggy, but then we are given the greenlight for a zodiac cruise:

The fog gives the whole cove a surreal, atmospheric look.

It’s home to a wide range of Antarctic species including gentoo and chinstrap penguins:

But the real prize is around the corner, when we encounter a leopard seal:

The seal plays around the zodiac for ages – a rare and special treat!

We also encounter some very lazy Weddell seals:

And more Antarctic shags:

Plus a chinstrap penguin that had an unfortunate encounter with some snow algae:

Kayakers are out to enjoy the beautiful weather – my number hasn’t yet been called, but I’m still hopeful:

And penguins are out in full force:

The light and shadow are unlike anything we’ve ever seen:

The fog grows steadily thicker, though we do eventually make our way back to the Wind:

She emerges from the fog like some kind of ghost ship.

We are told via intercom that we should be making a landing on the peninsula at Portal Point tomorrow – no briefing tonight, as we have more important matters to see to:

The polar plunge!

The kids each get two buckets of ice-cold water over their heads – and the polar plunge certificate to go with it. Big thanks to all the staff who advocated for them to be included.

Off to dinner at La Terrazza, where the views off the deck are absolutely stellar:

I’m the only one to try something new – shrimp in cognac sauce:

One more look off the deck before we leave.

The views change minute to minute, second to second. The fog rolls in, and clears just as suddenly. So we take one last long lingering look off our verandah before we head to bed: