Antarctica to Zimbabwe – Day 13 – San Jose de Maipo can be found here.
Up bright and early at 8:00 am this morning. Much in the way of preparations this morning, as we would be departing on a six to seven hour horseback riding trip at 10 am – which meant that everything would need to be moved from backpacks into smaller nylon bags and dry bags.
Off to breakfast, where we had our usual fare of bread, eggs, fruit, yoghurt, avocado, cold meats and cheeses. It’s about enough food for the full day, just in one sitting.

Though I did have to evict a suitor before the rest of my family arrived
Back to the room to sunscreen and brush teeth, then off to the central information station to sign waivers and get ready to depart.
We were soon met by our guide, who expressed some concern about our daughter joining us on the horseback riding trip. 12 is typically the minimum age, but she’s been riding since she was 4 years old and rides like she was a centaur in a previous life so they reluctantly agreed to give her a chance.
Off across the wobbly, wobbly bridge…

… With a stunning view.

And up to the stables:

The climb itself started relaxed and easy:
But the terrain soon turned difficult:
And yes, our madman of a daughter is actually trotting along these narrow mountain paths
After a long, hard ride we eventually reached the summit:
Then down the other side a stretch, until we reached an oasis – the Pool of Silent Tears:

My daughter and I went for a frigid swim while the guides prepared lunch:


It’s a lovely spot – and the lushness of the riverbed is striking against the stark beauty of the mountain:


Our guides continued to work on a huge feast:

And it wasn’t long before lunched was served:

Perhaps the finest meal of our journey to date!
Then off for a quick trip to the bathroom before we made our descent:

An actual bathroom at a mountaintop oasis – what an unexpected luxury!
Just for fun, here’s a series of photos from when my wife and I did it almost 20 years ago:







The terrain here is far lusher, and this time I managed not to get stalked by a puma. (The difference in snow is likely due to the difference in season – we did our first trip in September, and it was much cooler!)
Then time for the return trip.

My son had struggled with the final portion of our first leg – it’s a tough ride, made harder by the heat and the bugs. We could only hope the downward leg would prove easier.
Well, the wind helped keep the bugs down – but it was still a punishing ride, full of dust and steep drop-offs.
But eventually the Rio de Maipo came into view once more.
And soon we were back in the forest – then the stables, and finally back at Cascada.
It was a fantastic ride, but also long, hot and dusty.
We asked our daughter whether she’d enjoyed it, and she said: “Ask me again in five days.” I’d agree with that sentiment – I’m so glad to have done it, but I’m in no rush to do it again.

A brief trip back to the dome to shower and change, and then we were off to dinner – where my suitor made another appearance:

I had the shrimp panzotti again:

Pictured again in case anyone forgot what it looked like…
And we ordered the world’s largest ice cream sundae for my daughter:

Shortly after it arrived, some of the guests started calling “Zorras! Zorras!”:
A pair of culpeo foxes, nipping and playing – a fitting end to a wild day.
Continue reading Antarctica to Zimbabwe – Day 15 – San Jose de Maipo.