Morocco Storybook Tour – Day 6

Morocco Storybook Tour – Day 5 can be found here.

Up at 7:45 am this morning – a little later than usual for a travel day, as it seems we’ve gradually improved our packing abilities as the trip’s gone on. Another delicious breakfast – crepes this time instead of pancakes, but once again including both the Moroccan flatbread and the light, fluffy cheese omelettes.

The food at Azalai Desert Lodge really has been fantastic, as has the decor:

Ali once more arrived promptly at 9:30 am, shortly after we’d settled our modest bill – roughly 300 Dirhams or US$30 for the sparkling water and (non-alcoholic) poolside drinks we’d enjoyed over the past two days.

(Morocco is not a dry country in terms of alcohol but if that’s important to you then check your accommodation’s policy as they vary.)

Then we were on our way to the Sahara.

Once more through Zagora, and then again through the Anti Atlas mountains:

But mostly, the drive looked like this – long and flat and straight.

Ali said that in the summer, he can drive up to a hundred kilometres along this route without seeing another car.

The route was mostly quiet until we got to M’hamid – the last village before entering the Sahara. There shops, restaurants, tourist offices and garages all bustled with many, many travelers making their final preparations before heading into the Sahara.

We stopped briefly for bathrooms and an espresso, then made another pit stop to pick up a loaf of bread and some shelf-stable Laughing Cow cheese for the princely sum of 15 dirham (US$1.50).

That’s when we ran out of road.

Once more, I was profoundly grateful not to be the one doing the driving – Ali had to maintain real speed to keep the vehicle moving on the soft Saharan sand.

Ali also pointed out that the area around M’hamid once was a forest that was so thick, his mother used to worry about losing her kids inside it. But it’s since been cut down to be used as firewood, and to build nearby roofs. The persistent drought hasn’t helped either.

On the way out to the camp, we stopped to check out what little of the local flora there was to be found. This included some patches of arugula – the same kind as what you’d have in your salad – and a larger bush with an avocado-like fruit that is highly acidic, and which can actually cause blindness if it gets into your eyes.

Also – scarab beetles.

We also spotted some ultra-marathoners making their way through the Sahara. They were apparently taking part in the Trans Saharan Marathon, an Ultra Trail of 150 km in 4 stages in the Sahara Desert of Morocco. The event spans 7 days, and several checkpoints need to be passed along the way.

Amazing to think that human bodies are capable of such feats – not my human body specifically, you know, just human bodies in general.

Then once more through the desert:

Until we finally reached the Erg Chegaga Luxury Camp, and then on to our own private camp with our own staff.

All of this, just for 4 people…

Surprising as it might seem, we were initially disappointed that we had been placed in our private camp – we had specifically asked to be part of the main camp.

And for good reason. We wanted to be part of the group of travellers there, to join them around the fire, and to take part in the sunset camel ride. The latter has been replaced with a camel ride tomorrow to a nearby oasis for lunch.

Instead, we’re living in absolute luxury – and complete isolation.

Could we have asked them to take us back to the main camp, and set us up in a family tent instead? Maybe… but the kids were already not feeling great after a long, bumpy car ride, and they’ve already set up staff to look after us.

But… we soon warmed to the notion of our own private luxury camp. I think it started when I was typing up this post, and I noticed just how loud the keyboard seemed. Surely it hadn’t grown louder during our journey? No, it was simply amplified by the silence of the desert.

Soon thereafter, we began to realize some of the potential drawbacks of the communal camp. What if there was a British bachelor party staying there? What if there were only adults, and we had to constantly shush our children? What if there were only children, listening to their tablets at top volume and kicking sand everywhere?

On second thought, the private camp definitely had its own special appeal.

So something we intended to raise with Black Tomato as a negative instead became a positive. As my wife noted, it’s rare that a travel company knows her better than she knows herself.

(As does our daughter – we asked her whether she’d prefer to be in the main camp with the others, or here in the private camp with just us. Her vote: “Just us.”)

Private camp or not, the facilities are still somewhat rudimentary. Yes, we each have our own beautiful sleeping area…

But the shower facilities consist of hot and cold water taps and a bucket, along with a composting toilet. Such is the price of adventure.

The aforementioned shower facilities are sure to ‘bowl’ you over…

We whiled away a lazy afternoon, reading books, playing Dungeons & Dragons and enjoying drinks from the exceptionally well-stocked bar.

Our children had wanted to try their hand at sandboarding, but our host, Mohammad, suggested we wait until around 6:30 this evening, when it was cooler.

Instead, our children decided to try their hand at desert golf. Not my first choice for a Sahara activity but they seemed to truly enjoy it.

Gradually, the air began to cool, the dune became shaded, and it was time for sandboarding.