Morocco Storybook Tour – Day 4 can be found here.
My first thought this morning was, “What do we need to pack up before we leave?”
Then the second thought: “Oh, thank goodness. We’re here another day.”
That’s going to be the rule going forward – at least two nights in each place, if at all possible. Unpacking and repacking in a single day is a ton of work, particularly when travelling with children.
But that wasn’t a concern today, so we were able to sleep all the way until 8 am – just in time for us to enjoy a delicious breakfast, including Moroccan flatbread and a light and fluffy cheese omelette:
We were soon picked up by Ali, who took us to see the sign commemorating the route the caravans took to Timbuktu, Mali:
On the way, Ali explained that we would be investigating one of Uncle Edmund’s favourite haunts – an ancient Kasbah, inhabited by a powerful genie.
Once in the depths of the kasbah, we would summon the genie by rubbing the ring five times and saying, “Oh, genie! Please help us!”
And to ensure the genie’s favour, we would offer him a gift of the slippers (baboush) we had collected during our trip through the Medina of Marrakech, along with a small olive branch from a desert plant.
It’s amazing that anything can grow here – let alone olive trees
Then, perhaps, the genie would help us in our search for the magic lamp…
Tamegroute, just outside Zagora
Again, I was very impressed by the way Ali had woven in elements of our earlier trip in order to create a sense that everything was linked together, and that what we’d done earlier was an important part of what lay ahead.
We then headed off to the ancient kasbah, which had been built by Jewish merchants involved in the caravan trade back in the 15th century. Moroccans still live here today, though it’s since been updated with electricity and running water – in some sections, at least.
We wound our way through the kasbah, ducking our heads through narrow tunnels and abandoned passages, feeling like true adventurers.
Ali then let us know that we were approaching the fateful passage – and we inched our way forward, my son rubbing the ring, calling out: “Oh, genie! Please help us!”
The genie appeared in the shadows.
We offered the gift of the olive branch and the baboush, and he told us that the lamp we sought would be found in the salt mines of Talouet.
He then asked that we recover the two brass plates form the nearby passages.
With the plates recovered, he gave us two silver keys. We must recover two more, he said – which we would find within the walls of Ait Ben Haddou.
If Robin Williams’ genie can have a cell phone, then what’s wrong with our genie using his iPhone to illuminate the sacred keys?
We gave the genie our thanks and joined him for a cup of tea admidst the ancient, beautiful kasbah.
And we headed back out into a world that was just a little bit more magical than it had been before.
Then we headed to a nearby Koranic library, where we browsed books dating back to the 11th century. No photography was permitted, however, so you’ll have to be content with this picture of the entrance:
Some of the books were written on gazelle skin, and inked by bamboo pens and illuminated with saffron, indigo and goldleaf. It was a fascinating contrast to the Book of Kells – a beautiful 9th century illuminated manuscript – which we’d seen last summer in Dublin. There were also books on astronomy, mathematics, medicine, natural history and poetry.
Then a brief detour to visit a local pottery cooperative, located in another historic kasbah…
… Before returning back to Azalai Desert Lodge, where we set off on foot for a wander through the Draa Valley and a picnic beneath the palms. Sadly, much of valley is parched after years of drought.
Our picnic table beckons – an oasis within an oasis
Here we learned a bit more about the history of tea in Morocco – which was apparently a gift from Queen Anne of England in the 18th Century, hoping to encourage the release of British prisoners of war. Tea became a royal institution, and then the national drink of choice.
Ali said that, traditionally, three cups of tea were served. The first cup is light and just a little sweet, which represents life. The second is stronger and very sweet, which represents love. And the third is bitter, which represents death.
Also – pouring the tea from a height is meant to both cool it down and introduce some foam. Ali said the saying goes, “Tea without foam is like a nomad without a turban.”
The Desert Lodge served us a lovely picnic among the palms, including a salad, beef skewers and rice and creme caramel.
We were all pretty tired at this point, so we opted for a short cut back to our bungalow.
Followed by a lazy afternoon by the pool, where the cactus is beginning to bloom:
Back to our suite for a while, followed by an impromptu game of Dungeons & Dragons and a couple of rounds of Boules.
Then off for dinner, where we had eggplant parmesan (so good we didn’t remember to take a photo of it until it was too late), followed by chicken with Julienne vegetables and a chocolate lava cake.
Then back to our suite for a fire and a pot of lemon verbena tea.
Good to the last drop
We will be heading into the middle of the Sahara, so our internet access may be spotty. Posts may be delayed until we travel to Skoura in two days time.
Continue reading Morocco Storybook Tour – Day 6.